TNQ Writer
Some adventures are off the beaten track and others, like the Undara Lava Tubes, are underneath it. About 3.5 hours’ drive southwest of Cairns, Undara Volcanic National Park lets you explore the longest lava tube systems in the world, measuring 23 cubic kilometres.
It might only be three and a half hours’ drive from Cairns, but the Undara Lava Tubes feels worlds away. Consider this a road trip to be savoured, because across 255 kilometres you’ll be swapping the reef and rainforest for outback savannah country – as mountains flanked with rainforest give way to termite mounds and sparse vegetation.
Allow ample time to chase waterfalls across the Atherton Tablelands as you make your way from Cairns to your final destination, Undara Volcanic National Park. Aim to arrive by sundown, taking extra care of the native wildlife who like to share the road too.
What are the Undara Lava Tubes?
Inside Undara lava caves
Around 190,000 years ago, the Undara Volcano erupted and sent about 23 cubic kilometres of lava down an ancient riverbed. That’s enough to fill Sydney Harbour three times. The lava flowed for about 160 kilometres. Its surface cooled into a crust while molten rock kept flowing underneath, and when the flow drained away it left long, hollow tunnels.
In places the tube roofs have collapsed. Those collapses now hold pockets of dry rainforest, vine thicket and wildlife you won’t find elsewhere in the surrounding savannah. Inside, the walls are streaked with mineral colours and ripple patterns left by the flowing lava.
The wider park holds about 164 volcanoes, cones and vents. It is the traditional Country of the Ewamian people. “Undara” is an Aboriginal word meaning “a long way”.
When is the best time to visit Undara?
Explore the Undara Lava Tubes with Savannah Guides
April to August is best. Days are drier and cooler, and tours are running. September and early October are hot and dry. From late October to late March, the region is hot, humid and wet, and the tours and resorts close.
Expert Tip: The June–July and September school holidays are the busiest periods, so book tours and accommodation together.
How to see the lava tubes?
The Archway Explorer Tour features stairs and boardwalks
The Archway Explorer Tour features stairs and boardwalks
Both tours offer highlights of the tubes
Both tours offer highlights of the tubes
To see these geological wonders, you’ll need to join one of the Undara Experience’s Savannah Guides for a tour that delves into one of the world’s longest cave systems. Considering the name Undara translates to “the long way” in the local Indigenous language, you’d be right to wear comfortable walking shoes, regardless of the format you choose.
For an introduction to Undara’s Lava Tubes and a two-hour tour time, join the Archway Explorer, which covers some of the highlights of the system via boardwalks and stairs. This tour is the preferred-pick for tiny-travellers, those with accessible needs and / or travellers with a basic fitness level.
To explore more of the lava tube system, the Wind Tunnel Explorer guarantees adventure, taking you to three sections of the tubes across two hours. A moderate fitness level is required for this tour, with its uneven surfaces, some rock scrambling and lack of infrastructure to get you there. Either tour you choose, don’t expect to be submerged into total darkness. There are gaping holes in the tube system, which light up these cavernous caves.
What you should know:
- Stairs. The Archway complex is about 600 m return from the bus, with roughly 200–250 steps spread out with rest points. Kids don’t have to do every staircase.
- Age limits. The Wind Tunnel Explorer isn’t suitable for children under 5. Undara Lava Tube Tours lets 0–4-year-olds in free.
- Torches. Kids love spotting textures and roots in the torchlight. Undara Lava Tube Tours gives each paying adult a souvenir torch.
- Heat. Pack hats, sunscreen, enclosed shoes and a full water bottle each. It stays hot even in winter.
- No prams. Neither standard tour is suitable for strollers. Bring a baby carrier for little ones.
Where to stay?
Stay in a turn of the century rail carriage
Stay in a turn of the century rail carriage
Leave your camping equipment at home and opt for the swag tent village
Leave your camping equipment at home and opt for the swag tent village
When visiting one of Australia’s greatest geological wonders, you’ll want to stay close to the action. The Undara Experience is the only accommodation within the national park, offering a range of options from restored turn of the century rail carriages to camping (both BYO and tent city style), caravanning, well-appointed pioneer huts and homestead rooms.
No matter which style you choose, you’ll have access to the crowd-pleasing bush breakfast on offer at the Ringers Camp – an Aussie-fry up (think: bacon, eggs, snags cooked over the coals) and a piping hot cup of Billy Tea, all set to the backing vocals of the native birds.
Undara lava tubes tours compared
Multiple operators run tours into the tubes. All visit the Archway section, the park’s showcase. Whichever tour you choose, don’t expect to be submerged in total darkness. There are gaping holes in the tube system, which light up these cavernous caves. Bookings need to be confirmed ahead of time as tours sell out in school holidays, winter and long weekends.
Undara Lava Tube Tour – Undara Lava Tube Tours – 3 hrs, 4 tunnels incl. the Arch Complex – 9.30am & 1.30pm daily, Undara Road – Families wanting the fullest tour; under-5s free – Adult $125, child (5–15) $62, family $320
Archway Explorer – Discovery Resorts – Undara – 2 hrs, boardwalks and stairs with handrails – 8am, 10.30am, 1pm, 3.30pm, from resort reception – Young kids and most fitness levels – From $75 per person
Wind Tunnel Explorer – Discovery Resorts – Undara – 2 hrs, rock scrambling, rope sections – 8am & 10.30am – Older kids and adventurous teens (not under 5) – Check at booking
Accessible Collins Cave tour – Both operators – About 2 hrs, chairlift into the cave – Undara Lava Tube Tours: 7am daily – Wheelchair users and limited mobility – Check at booking
Wildlife at Sunset – Discovery Resorts – Undara – 2 hrs, late afternoon – Daily in season – Watching microbats stream out of a tube at dusk – Check at booking
What else is there to do at Undara?
See wildlife come alive at night on the Wildlife at Sunset tour
Walk the Kalkani Crater Rim
The underground lava tubes are only a fraction of this national park. Armed with a trail map, you can take your pick of the bushwalks through the park, which range from easy (2.5km) to more challenging hikes (12km).
The Kalkani Crater rim walk is a 2.5 km return circuit around the rim of an extinct volcano. Allow 1.5 hours. It starts at the Kalkani day-use area, 17 km from the resort, which has toilets, picnic tables and wheelchair-accessible toilets. You don’t need a guide. The view takes in the lava plains and nearby volcanic cones. School-age kids can manage it, but go early to beat the heat.
Longer hikes for teens
Chasing more views where this came from? If you’re an experienced hiker and like long-format walks, set aside six hours to take the 12-kilometre return hike to Rosella Plains Lookout via Atkinsons Lookout. This trail offers views of the McBride’s Volcanic Province, along with a variety of landscapes from lowlands, steep inclines that scale jump-ups, and plenty of native vegetation in between. Download the map.
Watch the bats at sunset
Undara is home to four species of microbat. On the Wildlife at Sunset tour, you’ll watch thousands of them pour out of a lava tube at dusk to feed. Pythons and tree snakes sometimes wait at the cave mouth to catch them.
Try a bush breakfast
Discovery Resorts – Undara runs a bush breakfast cooked over coals, with billy tea and toast on the fire. It’s an easy, memorable outback experience for kids.
Spot wildlife
Look for eastern grey kangaroos, wallabies, emus and more than 130 recorded bird species around the park and resort.
Time it with a festival
The Outback Rock & Blues festival runs over three days in the resort’s natural amphitheatre. Check dates with Discovery Resorts – Undara.
Where to eat?
Toast bread on a fire at the Bush Breakfast
Toast bread on a fire at the Bush Breakfast
Enjoy traditional Billy Tea
Enjoy traditional Billy Tea
Dine in a former railway carriage at the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro
Dine in a former railway carriage at the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro
In a nod to the Undara Experience’s outback location, the hospitality synonymous with the region, can be found in full swing here. Meet other travellers for the Bush Breakfast, which is served over the coals and washed down with freshly brewed billy tea each morning.
Both lunch and dinner are available at the Fettler’s Iron Pot Bistro, which takes pride of place in a former railway carriage. The menu at Fettler’s is as retro as the furnishings, serving up the likes of corned beef, Georgetown sausages and homemade desserts, including their crowd-pleasing chocolate volcano. In between main meal times, Saloon Car Bar, slings coffees, beers, wines and tea and cake to hungry (and thirsty) travellers.
Mark your diary for these events
Undara Rock and Blues
A rock music festival set to the backdrop of this ancient landscape? You’d have to see it to believe it. Save the date on or around ANZAC Day, for the annual Undara Outback Rock and Blues Music event, which takes over the national park for three days of country music.
Later in the year, the Rockabilly Rods and Rides Festival makes use of the natural, outdoor amphitheatre with live music and entertainment.
